1. The Bonaparte House National Museum
It is in this port town on the island’s west coast that Napoleon Bonaparte’s birthplace is situated. Now a national museum, the Emperor’s childhood home stands alongside streets named after him, as well as several statues in various parts of the town.
Inside this historic monument, you’ll find period furniture and rooms decorated in the authentic style of the late 18th century. The museum presents Napoleon’s history through a tour that traces his youth, as well as his final visit to Ajaccio. The birth room is dedicated to his birth on 15 August 1769, whilst other rooms are devoted to the stories of the Napoleonic legend, as well as to his death.
2. The Museum of Fine Arts at the Palais Fesch
This museum of fine arts, situated on the seafront, is one of France’s most important museums after the Louvre. The Palais Fesch houses the second-largest collection of Italian Primitives.
In this 5,000 m² space spread over several floors, you can admire masterpieces by great Italian artists from the 14th to the 17th centuries, including Botticelli, Veronese and Bellini…
You’ll also find yourself surrounded by works by French and Flemish painters. An entire wing is dedicated to Corsican painters and paintings depicting the island, not to mention portraits of Napoleon and the Bonaparte family.
3. The Old Port
As you stroll around Ajaccio’s harbour at the first light of day, you’ll come across fishermen unloading their catch of the day. Amidst the fish, sea urchins and lobsters, take in the hustle and bustle amongst the multicoloured nets. You’ll find all these seafood delicacies later on at the market in the farmers’ hall.
As the day goes on, the atmosphere changes and the quays also welcome luxury yachts. Settle down on the terrace of a café to enjoy the view, letting yourself be carried away by the lapping of the waves and the sound of the ropes brushing against the sails.
4. The Church of Saint Roch (San Roccu)
Among Ajaccio’s remarkable sites and monuments, don’t miss the Church of San Roccu, situated on the Cours Napoléon. This building is a truly typical example of late 19th-century neoclassical architecture.
Its design was based on a plan by the Ajaccio-born architect Barthélémy Maglioli in 1885. However, the building was simplified during construction due to problems with the site and excessive costs. The Church of Saint Roch is beautifully illuminated by a play of lights at dusk.
5. The statue of Napoleon on Place d’Austerlitz
In the Ajaccio region, Place d’Austerlitz is also closely linked to the Emperor’s history. The term ‘Grotte Napoléon’ refers to the large rocks beneath which the young Napoleon used to dream of conquests and glory.
Place d’Austerlitz features a statue of Bonaparte dressed as a colonel of the Guard. Unveiled in 1938, the monument’s sloping surface depicts the Emperor’s various victories.
You can reach this point of interest on foot from the Cours Grandval by taking the plane-tree-lined promenade through the ‘Quartier des Étrangers’, bordered by the Palais Lantivy and some superb townhouses.
6. The Changing of the Imperial Guard at Place Foch
Every Thursday throughout the summer, immerse yourself in the history and splendour of the Empire on Place Foch by watching the changing of the Imperial Guard. After the arrival of the chasseurs à pied, the ceremony unfolds in three stages.
To the sound of drums, the first part of the changing of the guard is a presentation of arms, the second consists of marches, and the third involves the honouring of the flag. The finale is particularly impressive, featuring rifle salutes.
7. The Miollis Citadel
The Miollis Citadel was a military building before becoming the property of the city of Ajaccio in 2020. This strategic site was built in 1492 by the Genoese to protect the city from attacks from the sea.
Originally comprising a keep and a low rampart, the citadel was expanded and fortified over the centuries. A rallying point for soldiers from Ajaccio before they left for the front, the building was also occupied by Italian fascists during the Second World War.
8. Lazaret Ollandini – Marc Petit Museum
Before becoming a cultural centre, the Lazaret was intended to replace the quarantine facility on the Sanguinaires islands. Commenced in 1839 by the architect Vincent Lottero, the site did not become operational until 1848. A hundred years later, the building was converted into low-cost housing before being purchased by François Ollandini. This patron of the arts, an enthusiast of art and philosophy, transformed the site into a major cultural venue.
The Lazaret Ollandini was inaugurated in 1999, and in 2020 the owners donated the bare ownership of the property to the city of Ajaccio. A permanent museum trail has been created in the gardens and along the paths of the Lazaret, centred around Marc Petit’s bronze sculptures.
9. Ajaccio Market and its culinary specialities
The landscapes and historic monuments of the ‘Isle of Beauty’ are not the only things to delight the senses. Gastronomic tourism also plays a significant role in Corsica.
Discover local produce on Place Campinchi. The Halle Gourmande is brimming with producers and artisans eager to introduce you to their specialities. The stalls are filled with traditional flavours: Corsican charcuterie, cheeses from Ajaccio, as well as sweet treats such as ambrucciata and finuchjetti.
Photo: Michal Osmenda